BUBBLE AND SQUEAK

Childhood memories of Bubble, still fresh in the mind, crispy fried potatoes with leftover veg, gravy from yesterdays roast, maybe a little meat on the side if we were lucky!
Bubble and squeak is a traditional British dish, very similar to Colcannon the Irish favourite. Surprisingly this dish has a little lore to help it along with it own piece of cockney rhyming slang "BUBBLE AND SQUEAK- GREEK". The term bubble applies to the noise that the mashed potato makes when fried, and if cooked the traditional way as a giant Pattie is does indeed bubble as it cooks as for the squeak it is said that the cabbage makes it own noise, squeaking as it cooks!
Traditionally Cabbage is added or in place Brussels sprouts, in reality recipes evolve over time, i like too add some parsley and chives but this is in no way traditional. All manner of leftover veg can be added, but for now we will stick with good old Cabbage.

RECIPE;

500g floury potatoes
50g butter (unsalted)
200-400g Cabbage- shredded centre stalk removed
1 onion - sliced
20g flat parsley
10g chives
Sea salt
Black pepper
oil(olive,veg,sunflower)3-4 tbsp
Hot milk 1-3 tbsp (optional)


THE MASH

Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, drain, mash in the pan with butter,parsley and chives, season to taste with salt and pepper. If the mash is too dense you can add a little hot milk, but you do not want a wall paper paste consistency!

THE SQUEAK

Add half the oil to a heavy based saute pan, fry the onion and cabbage for 3 -4 minutes until softened. Season well with salt and pepper, add the mash.

THE BUBBLE

Press the mash firmly down into the pan and allow to cook for 4-5 minutes. You will find that the mash bubbles, hence the name! You will need at this point, to continue to keep the mash in contact with the base of the pan, a good crisp base is what we are looking for.
After or when satisfied that the base is crispy enough, place a suitable sized plate over the saute pan and invert so that the Pattie is now on the plate. Place the rest of the oil into the saute pan and slide the Pattie back in, uncooked side to the base of the pan, cook for a further 5 minutes or until satisfied with crispness.

Turn out onto a plate and serve immediately!

NOTES

Alternatively form into small Patties and fry until crisp on both sides! Bubble and squeak is great eaten as supper or as a breakfast dish with fried eggs and bacon or even served alone, or with eggs. Traditionally eaten on mondays or the day after a roast.This is a dish of thrift using leftovers, fresh ingredients really shine when paired with mash and fried. Broccoli,kale and sprouts are all good, adjust cooking times accordingly. As kids all manner of veg would appear from cauliflower to carrots.

CAULIFLOWER CHEESE

Being truthful i was never a fan of cauliflower as a child. Why oh why would i want to eat something that looks cross between an albino brain and a bonsai tree on steroids?
Well there are several reasons really, Honest! Cauliflowers are nutritious, low in calories, cheap and have super food status - Unfortunately when your a child none of these reasons really amount too much! That is until you pour a good cheese sauce over the florets and bake in an oven.
Thankfully as I've matured so has my palette, so i find myself enjoying just cooked cauliflower with a sprinkle of sea salt and a turn of black pepper, with the cheese sauce as a treat occasionally. Cauliflower cheese although often relegated to veggie frozen food fodder, should be a treat. A good cauliflower cheese can stand alone or be served as a side say with roast meats, particularly roast beef!

RECIPE;
Serve 4 as a side dish or 2 as a main.

1 lge head of cauliflower(outer foliage removed)
200g mature Cheddar(grated)
1 small onion
400ml of milk(semi or whole)
75g unsalted butter
50g plain flour
5 black peppercorns(whole)
3 cloves(whole)
1 bay leaf(torn)
1 tsp Dijon mustard
5 tsp double cream(optional)
2 tbsp Parmesan cheese(optional)
Pinch of chilli powder(optional)
Pinch of ground mace(optional)
Nutmeg to taste
Sea salt and ground pepper(Please remember that pepper has already been used and that you may have sufficient salt from the cheese).

METHOD;
Roughly chop the onion and place in a pan with the milk,cloves,black pepper corns and the bay leaf. Bring to the boil, take off heat and set aside to infuse for 20 minutes.
Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil(1 tsp of salt per a litre of water).Trim Cauliflower of foliage, cut into bite sized florets. Cook for 8-10 minutes,drain and reserve.
Just before the end of the milk infusion time, melt the butter in a saucepan, once melted gradually sieve plain flour into the butter, stirring to form a roux. This is the basis of the white sauce. Once a smooth paste has formed-free of lumps, strain the infused milk into the roux, whilst stirring at all times. Once incorporated gradually add the cheese. Once smooth add Dijon mustard and double cream-if using.
Adjust seasoning if required and add optional mace and/or chilli if desired.
Placed reserved Cauliflower florets into an ovenproof dish and pour on the cheese sauce, place into a preheated oven 190/375f/gas 5 for 15 minutes, remove, add a grating of nutmeg too taste and the Parmesan cheese. Return too the oven and remove when browned.

NOTES;

While not a standard cheese sauce for cauliflower, and probably not the easiest recipe around the effort is worth it, as they say the proof is in the pudding!
All manner of extra ingredients could be used crispy bacon or pancetta could be added along with breadcrumbs for the final browning. Chopped chives,horseradish sauce or English mustard could be used instead. You could add cooked pasta too the recipe for a hybrid of Macaroni cheese. Really, variations could be endless.

FIVE SPICE POTATO AND ONION KEBABS

Absolutely delicious and very simple to make these kebabs ooze flavour. You will need kebab skewers preferably metal ones long enough to hold four baby new potatoes each. First make the marinade/basting liquid.


BASTE/MARINADE;
3 TBSP OF VEGATABLE OIL OR GROUNDNUT OIL
2 TSP OF CHINESE FIVE SPICE POWDER
VERY SMALL PINCH OF SALT

KEBABS;
4 METAL SKEWERS
16 BABY NEW POTATOES
ONION CUT INTO WEDGES
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER
HALF A LIME


Blanch the new potatoes for 7-8 minutes in boiling water, drain. When cool enough to handle thread an onion wedge then a potato and so on till you end with an onion wedge, you should have four potatoes and five onion wedges. Place on a grill rack or in a roasting tray and baste all over with the marinade, season with salt and pepper, then place into a pre - heated oven (190c/375f/gas 5) for 35 minutes. You should have enough marinade for two more bastes during cooking.

TO SERVE;
Half a lime for four kebabs. Place the skewers onto a plate, and squeeze the juice of half a lime over the kebabs. This is a great side dish to serve with filled pitta breads or eat alone as a tasty snack.

TOMATO SAUCE WITH RED WINE ( v )

A very versatile Tomato sauce suitable for vegetarians. Good quality tinned tomatoes can be used or the equivalent weight in fresh ripe tomatoes. Although good for vegetarians this sauce is suitable for most uses requiring a tomato sauce.

RECIPE;
800g tomatoes
(If using fresh make an incision at the vine end, plunge into boiling water for a maximum of 10 seconds then peel. De-seed then finely chop)
125g tomato puree
125ml red wine
2 cloves garlic (crushed with the back of a knife with a little coarse sea salt)
2 shallots
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp of fresh oregano or 1 tsp of dried
salt/black pepper

Optional;
handful of flat leaf parsley
1 tsp sweet paprika

METHOD;
Heat a skillet or large saucepan with the olive oil over a medium heat, add the shallot and cook until softened. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds before adding the tomatoes. Cook the tomatoes for 5 minutes- season. Add the tomato puree and red wine. Allow the sauce to absorb the wine, then add the oregano and parsley if using. Stir and adjust seasoning. Add the paprika if required stir again and allow to simmer for a minimum of 30 minutes.

MUSHROOM RISOTTO

Dare i say vegetarian? This robust ,gutsy, meaty dish is a vegetarian delight. So what? Consider that most vegetarians that i know well, will not let much in the way of vegetable matter pass their lips -resulting in a diet consisting of Cheddar, bread and confectionery, while the other end of the spectrum consists of my carnivorous friends who just do not understand that vegetarian can = great taste! On several occasions friends have shown up after work for a cup of chai and a chat, resulting in an extra place happily laid at the table. An hour or so would pass after the unexpected guest had eaten for the subject of say, vegetarian food to be raised.

First reaction from unexpected guest would normally warrant ;

"Not for me, can not stand the stuff"

"What do you class as vegetarian - then mate"

"Well bland comes to mind"

"Did you enjoy your unexpected supper?"

"Yeah- great mate"

"That was vegetarian"

"Yeah right!"

"Honest mate- you see, that dish you just ate unexpectedly, did not contained one meat based product"

"Well i never thought about it like that, it never crossed my mind that we were eating veggie food"

So the story goes that veggie food is bland, unexciting and certainly given a bad name by silly products that veggies buy to avoid the issues of eating you guessed - VEGETABLES. Eventually the conversation arrives at the phrase vegetarian - With a conclusion that the term is used and abused for the wrong reasons, with the term itself misleading people, and not actually guiding people to what vegetarian food can be!

While i will never be a vegetarian, i do eat a lot of vegetarian home cooked food and will actively seek out, if available the vegetarian options in good restaurants. I know how to cook meat, after years of experiments i know what i like, a fish cooked by a top chef will more than likely be great if not fussed over and fresher than most people will be accustomed too, but i want to know what these guys can do with the humble carrot or a basket of beets or a wonderful risotto made without meat based stock, this too me in some ways is the essence of good food and cooking, which in turn brings us too this humble but welcoming mushroom risotto made without anything with a face!

RECIPE;

500g arborio or risotto rice

1.5 Lt's of good vegetable stock or very good quality veg stock cube with a low salt content

500ml mushroom stock(reserved from reconstituted dried mushrooms)

1 large white onion - finely chopped

1 medium clove of garlic- very finely chopped

100 ml dry vermouth

150g open mushrooms(Chestnut or field) - sliced

20g- 40g dried porcini (reconstituted in boiling 500ml boiling water)

80g unsalted butter

1 tbsp of olive oil

2 tsp of fresh thyme

50-60g freshly grated Parmesan + extra for the table

Freshly ground sea salt and fresh black pepper

METHOD;

Have at the ready a pan with your vegetable stock at the boil, drain the reserved mushroom stock into the pan of veg stock, and bring back to the boil. Heat a large enough saute pan with half the butter and the olive oil, once at a medium heat add the porcini mushrooms, saute for a minute before adding the onion and garlic. Allow to soften, but do not colour, once softened add the sliced mushrooms. Saute for two minutes or until the mushrooms lose there raw edge - Season. Add the dry vermouth and allow to bubble before adding the risotto rice. Allow the rice to absorb the vermouth and fats that remain in the pan. This stage is now the crucial act that will determine the end product. The risotto will require your undivided attention and constant stirring for a minimum of 15 minutes but anywhere as high as 20 minutes is not unknown.

Once the vermouth has been absorbed, you will add a ladle full of boiling stock, waiting for the rice to absorb all liquid before adding the next ladle. The rice requires stirring at all times. You will continue to ladle stock until you have achieved a creamy consistency, the rice will need to be soft on the outside with an al dente middle.

A minute before you feel the rice is ready, remove from the heat and stir in the remaining butter and Parmesan cheese, once combined the rice will look glossy and extra creamy, now add the fresh thyme and repeat the stir, adjust seasoning if needed and serve immediately as if you have not eaten for weeks. This part is important!

If feeling flush add truffle, for the rest of us a good drizzle of truffle oil will lift the taste to new heights. While not essential truffle oil will give a luxurious edge to a rich warming robust dish that invokes memories of the land!

NOTES;

DO NOT WASH RISOTTO RICE BEFORE USE!

click on bad photograph, to view close up of finished texture!

CARAMELISED ONIONS

Slow cooked onions caramelised in there own sugars make a wonderful accompaniment to savoury foods. Caramelised onions can lift the mundane to new heights, perfect with sausages or added to onion soup, they are the last word in a simple and inexpensive condiment, that can be used to bring new pleasure to the table.

Cooking time up to 45 minutes for 400g of sliced onions

RECIPE;
White onions - allow 100g per a person
Optional - 1 tsp granulated sugar
A pinch each of sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
METHOD;
Coat the bottom of a skillet or suitable sized saute pan with a film of olive oil, place on a high heat, add sliced onions and lower the heat to medium, stirring from time to time to ensure even cooking. After 15 minutes season with sea salt and black pepper, additional sugar if using, then turn down the heat to low. Cooking times will vary but allow up to 45 minutes and a reduction in mass of at least a third. Drain any excess oil before serving.

NOTES;
Please do not be fooled by the amount of sliced onions that you start the recipe with. They will eventually with a little patient on the part of the cook, reduce down to at the minimum a third of there original mass.

Suitable for vegetarians.

PANCAKE FU YOUNG

A vegetarian version of a Fu Young dish. This recipe is using a pancake as a base rather than the traditional egg omelette. The beauty of this dish is that you can use any vegetables you have to hand. The Fu young is really a folded omelette with an assortment of Chinese ingredients.

THE RECIPE;

4 pancakes

2 cloves of garlic(finely chopped)

1 chilli- seeds removed and sliced

1" piece of fresh ginger(finely chopped)

8-10 chestnut mushrooms(sliced)

4 spring onions(sliced on the diagonal)

1 medium onion(roughly chopped)

1 red pepper- sliced and seeds removed

4-6 mangetout

4-6 baby corn

A handful of fresh beansprouts

1 tbsp plus 1 teaspoon of light soy sauce

Juice of half a lime

1 tsp sesame oil

sweet chilli sauce to taste

sea salt and black pepper to taste

OPTIONAL INGREDIENTS;

1 tsp of 5 spice

1 tsp of sugar

METHOD;

Stir fry the garlic ,onion,ginger and chilli for 1 minute, add the mangetout and corn and cook for a further minute, then add the bell pepper and mushrooms cook for a further 2-3 minutes then add the soy sauce and lime. Continue to stir fry then check for seasoning, adjust as necessary. Finally add the beansprouts and spring onion and cook for a further minute, then add a tsp of sesame oil before serving.

TO SERVE;

Place a 1/4 of the stir fry on each pancake and roll into a cigar shape, cut in half and plate with a garnish of sweet chilli sauce and a drizzle of the pan juices.

ROOT VEGETABLE BROTH

A very simple yet tasty root vegetable broth. It is amazing how a dish so simple and cheap can be so Delicious. Very rustic in appearance, almost a stew, but more a soup with chunky veg.
Recipe;
2 tbsp of olive oil
2 bay leaves
1 onion
1000ml good vegetable stock or decent stock cube
120g leek(white)
1 tbsp of fresh Thyme
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Root vegetables;
200g swede/turnip
1 large parsnip
2 medium potatoes
5 carrots
1 medium sweet potato
METHOD;
Peel and cut your root veg into bite size chunks. Roughly chop the onion and leek, and finely chop the garlic. Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large saute or sauce pan(large enough to hold all of the ingredients comfortably), add the onion and leek and cook until soft, now add the garlic, and cook for a further minute without browning. Lightly season with sea salt and pepper, and add the bay and thyme. Now add the carrot and cook for a further 5 minutes, then add the other root vegetables, pour on stock and simmer untill all veg are cooked to your liking. Adjust seasoning whilst cooking. This will serve 4.