BUBBLE AND SQUEAK

Childhood memories of Bubble, still fresh in the mind, crispy fried potatoes with leftover veg, gravy from yesterdays roast, maybe a little meat on the side if we were lucky!
Bubble and squeak is a traditional British dish, very similar to Colcannon the Irish favourite. Surprisingly this dish has a little lore to help it along with it own piece of cockney rhyming slang "BUBBLE AND SQUEAK- GREEK". The term bubble applies to the noise that the mashed potato makes when fried, and if cooked the traditional way as a giant Pattie is does indeed bubble as it cooks as for the squeak it is said that the cabbage makes it own noise, squeaking as it cooks!
Traditionally Cabbage is added or in place Brussels sprouts, in reality recipes evolve over time, i like too add some parsley and chives but this is in no way traditional. All manner of leftover veg can be added, but for now we will stick with good old Cabbage.

RECIPE;

500g floury potatoes
50g butter (unsalted)
200-400g Cabbage- shredded centre stalk removed
1 onion - sliced
20g flat parsley
10g chives
Sea salt
Black pepper
oil(olive,veg,sunflower)3-4 tbsp
Hot milk 1-3 tbsp (optional)


THE MASH

Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, drain, mash in the pan with butter,parsley and chives, season to taste with salt and pepper. If the mash is too dense you can add a little hot milk, but you do not want a wall paper paste consistency!

THE SQUEAK

Add half the oil to a heavy based saute pan, fry the onion and cabbage for 3 -4 minutes until softened. Season well with salt and pepper, add the mash.

THE BUBBLE

Press the mash firmly down into the pan and allow to cook for 4-5 minutes. You will find that the mash bubbles, hence the name! You will need at this point, to continue to keep the mash in contact with the base of the pan, a good crisp base is what we are looking for.
After or when satisfied that the base is crispy enough, place a suitable sized plate over the saute pan and invert so that the Pattie is now on the plate. Place the rest of the oil into the saute pan and slide the Pattie back in, uncooked side to the base of the pan, cook for a further 5 minutes or until satisfied with crispness.

Turn out onto a plate and serve immediately!

NOTES

Alternatively form into small Patties and fry until crisp on both sides! Bubble and squeak is great eaten as supper or as a breakfast dish with fried eggs and bacon or even served alone, or with eggs. Traditionally eaten on mondays or the day after a roast.This is a dish of thrift using leftovers, fresh ingredients really shine when paired with mash and fried. Broccoli,kale and sprouts are all good, adjust cooking times accordingly. As kids all manner of veg would appear from cauliflower to carrots.

THAI GREEN CURRY PASTE - NAM PRIK GAENG KHEO WAN

As in most curry pastes a mix of dried and fresh ingredients are used. This is a good and versatile green paste, that is made in the same way as the previous red paste!

INGREDIENTS;

1 tsp coriander seeds - roasted until fragrant and coloured
1/2 tsp cumin seeds -roasted until fragrant and coloured
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp galangal
3 tbsp lemongrass-white lower 1/3- finely chopped
1 tsp kaffir lime peel- chopped or 2 finely shredded lime leaves
2 tbsp coriander root- chopped(see note)
2 tbsp asian shallots(purple)- chopped
1 tbsp garlic - smashed
1 tsp shrimp paste
1 tsp turmeric- skinned and chopped or dried if fresh not available
20 small green chillies
1 good handful of sweet basil leaves

METHOD;

As with the red paste start with the hardest ingredients first, which in this case would naturally be the dried spices. Pound to a powder, then add remaining ingredients, starting with the hardest(lemongrass). Pound until paste is smooth - 10 -15 minutes. Alternatively place in a blender/liquidizer, you may need to moisten with a touch of water.

Makes 4-5 tbsp

NOTES;

If coriander root is unavailable, use the stems from a coriander plant, or nearest to where the root was to be found. Unfortunately most shops and suppliers sell coriander rootless! The logic behind using the roots is that the coriander plant draws its nutrients and flavour through the roots therefor these will provide a superior flavour!

LAMB BURGER

RECIPE;
400g boned leg of lamb or lamb mince
1 medium onion
1 clove garlic
2 tsp Dijon mustard
10g fresh mint
Sea salt and Ground black pepper
olive oil

METHOD;
If using boned leg of lamb place the lamb into a food processor and blitz to break down. Now add the rest of your ingredients and season well. Turn off the processor at the mains and remove the blade, and form the mixture into burgers. Heat a skillet or frying pan and season the burgers again if so desired, now add to the hot oil and cook on both sides to your desired liking. Two - three minutes a side is more then sufficient.


Alternatively if using lamb mince place all the ingredients into a bowl and combine using you hands, the inclusion of an egg will help to bind the mixture.

Recipe makes 4 - 6 burgers depending on size.

MINT AND YOGHURT DIP

6 tbsp of natural yoghurt
2" piece of cucumber chopped finely and skin peeled
2 tbsp fresh mint
Optional fresh green chilli( 1/4 of a medium chilli is sufficent for flavour)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO MAKE;
Add the yoghurt to a bowl then the finely chopped mint, cucumber and chilli if using. Taste and adjust seasoning to your preference. This dip improves once the flavours have infused, so if possible make in advance.

A squeeze of lemon can be added for a sour note.

CORRIANDER OIL

Flavoured oils are a delight, not only visually, they can also lift a dish beyond the norm.



CORIANDER OIL;

100ml extra virgin olive oil

20g fresh coriander

Grain or two of sea salt

METHOD;

Blanch the fresh coriander in rapidly boiling water for 30 seconds then refresh in an iced water bath to stop the cooking and preserve the colour. Pat dry with a cloth or paper towel.
Add coriander to the liquidiser with a little of the oil. Liquidise till smooth, then gradually add the rest of the oil, into the mixture is smooth,lump free and a vibrant green colour.
Refrigerate till needed. This oil will only keep for 2-3 days maximum.

BASIL,PARSLEY AND MINT OIL

Method;
As above but reduce the blanching time to 15 seconds.

CARROT SOUP WITH CORIANDER OIL

Carrot soup anyone? To many this must sound at the fore front of bland. Carrots like the humble parsnip must be among the most versatile of root vegetables, not only can we cook them in a multitude of ways they also appear in desserts in the form of cakes!

Growing up, like most kids i was put through the torture of carrots cut into rounds, then cooked to affinity till all of the goodness had leached from the poor vegetables to form an orange tinted water that was then thrown away. I'm still convinced to this day that pouring that water on the garden would have made you king of horticulture. Many a year was spent wondering how Bugs bunny enjoyed this humble veg!

As years have passed my taste buds have developed thank god! A carrot is no longer held or seen in the light that was previously shown to it, but to reach this stage of carrot enlightenment you have to ban all carrot killers from the pot, take up the apron or find a cook that understands the humble root veg!



A recipe for Carrot soup that is lightly spiced, with the addition of coriander(cilantro) oil.



Serves 4 as a starter( Quantities can be increased, but try to keep to the figure of 250 between the carrots and liquid i.e. 750g carrot to 1000ml liquid, increase to 1000g of carrot to 1250 ml liquid and so forth), reason for this is texture and thickness. This ratio works well with a good silky texture.



Recipe:



Roast carrots:



750g of carrots

Olive oil

Sea Salt and Freshly Ground pepper



Carrot soup:



1000ml of good chicken stock preferably homemade. For a vegetarian version omit chicken stock and replace with vegetable stock.

750 g of roasted carrots

A good handful of fresh coriander

1 teaspoon of roasted and ground coriander seeds

Half a teaspoon of cumin powder

Sea salt

Freshly Ground pepper



Coriander(cilantro) oil:



100ml of extra virgin olive oil

20g of fresh coriander(stems and leaf)

A grain or two of sea salt (no more)

Method:



Top and tail the carrots and clean as necessary trying to leave skins intact. Pre-heat your oven to 190c and lightly coat the carrots in a roasting tray with the oil. Season well.Cook for 40 minutes of until roasted and cooked through.

While the carrots are roasting make the coriander oil. Bring a big pan of water to the boil and blanch the coriander for 30 seconds then plunge into an iced water bath. Pat dry and add to a liquidiser with some of the EVO oil, add the small amount of salt and blitz in the liquidiser adding the rest of the oil until a vibrant green oil is achieved that is free of coriander pieces. Transfer to a container and refrigerate till needed.

In another pan bring the desired amount of chicken stock to the boil, once the carrots are cooked add to a liquidiser with the stock, and puree. Add fresh coriander then season, add ground roasted coriander seeds(see note), and cumin and continue to puree to a smooth consistency is achieved!

Transfer to a clean pan and bring to a simmer. Simmer for at least 15 minutes, stirring at intervals.



To serve:



Transfer to serving bowls, and add a teaspoon of coriander oil to each bowl.



Notes:



To roast the coriander seeds, place a skillet or frying pan onto a hob, place the seeds into the pan and lightly toast till the aroma is released. Once the aroma is released remove from the source of heat and pound to a powder in a pestle and mortar.



The coriander oil will yield a lot more than is needed for this soup, but is very versatile and can be used as a sauce for other dishes or as an ingredient.

PAPARDELLE WITH HOMEMADE PESTO

Allow 100g of Papardelle per a person and a tablespoon of pesto.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil(allow 1 litre of water for 100g of pasta), cook pasta to preference or packet instructions. Drain pasta and add back to the pan, add a table spoon of cooking liquid, then stir through the required amount of homemade pesto(recipe can be found under the heading pesto) if using.

Finish with a grating of Parmesan, and season with freshly ground salt and pepper.

Shop bought pesto could be used!

PESTO

This recipe for pesto, is wonderful for the home cook to attempt, although made with the help of a food processor, the result is very robust with good flavour!

Better results would be achieved with a pestle and mortar, but just the small step from shop bought to homemade is a revelation!

100g pine kernels/nuts(lightly toasted)

200ml extra virgin olive oil

50g fresh basil leaves(approx 2 handfuls)

25g Parmesan(freshly grated)

3 medium cloves of garlic

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method;



First lightly toast the pine nuts in a saute pan without colouring or burning, toast until they release a little aroma!

Place basil leaves and garlic cloves into a food processor, and pulse gently, until roughly chopped, now add the pine nuts, pulse again, add a little oil to loosen then lightly season. Now add the parmesan pulse again, and add the rest of the oil in a steady stream.


Taste and adjust seasoning!


This will make approximately 350g

This pesto will keep in an airtight container, for about 7 days.



Note on pesto:

Pesto is a ligurian speciality, that is now wide spread throughout italy. A measure of pesto's success and taste is revealed by it's use all over italy, and it's rampant spread across the world.
Pesto is a sauce, with vivid green colour, that can be used with pasta, minestrone and other dishes to add colour and flavour. Pesto can be made with other varieties of nuts, sometimes.
walnuts are used, and some commercial varieties might include inferior nuts!
There are many versions of pesto, with each recipe being personal to the cook, some remain secret to this day!

If ligurian oil is available, please use as pesto is a ligurian speciality. Each oil brings it's own unique taste, and pecorino could be substituted for parmesan, the variations are many!

CONCHIGLIE WITH PORCINI AND PARSLEY

Conchiglie is a shell shaped pasta originating from campania, due to it's shape, it is good to use with sauces, although this recipe does not hold sauce, the shape of the pasta proves to be worthwhile host for all the flavours from this dish.

This recipe calls for dried porcini mushrooms, which are reconstituted in boiling water. Pour enough boiling water to cover the mushrooms and a little more, for good measure. Your drained water can then be used as a mushroom stock.
This recipe is suitable for vegetarians.



Serves 4



Ingredients;



2 lts lightly salted water

400g conchiglie pasta (100g per person)

40g dried porcini mushrooms( 10g per person)

60g pecorino cheese(15g per person)

2 medium cloves of garlic

25g unsalted butter

olive oil

a large pinch of mild chilli powder

2tsp fresh lemon

2 tbsp of mushroom stock- reserved from reconstituted mushrooms

A handful of fresh- flat leaf parsley(if using a small hand, please use a large handful)

Sea salt and ground pepper



Method;

You will need to reconstitute the dried porcini mushrooms in boiling water, for approx 30 minutes. Once reconstituted, pass the mushroom liquid through a fine sieve or strainer, and reserve.
Bring 2lts of lightly salted water to the boil, once boiling add 400g of conchiglie.

While waiting for pasta to cook, peel 2 garlic cloves, and wrap your parsley into a nice tight bunch, finely chop the parsley and garlic together.
Add 25 g of butter and a splash of olive oil to a large skillet/saute pan, once hot add porcini and cook for a couple of minutes, then add parsley and garlic, keep the pan ingredients moving, after a minute add a pinch of chilli, incorporate, add 2 tbsp of mushroom stock to loosen the ingredients,then add 2 tsp of fresh lemon.

Be cautious when seasoning this dish as you will have salt from the cooked pasta and pecorino, a turn or two of the pepper mill will be more than sufficent!

Check the pasta to see if cooked to your liking(personally i like pasta very firm to the bite), if happy, turn off heat and add a cup of cold water to the pasta pan to stop, the cooking process!
Drain the pasta and add to the saute pan and toss to mix through. (do not rinse the pasta under a running tap, as this will impair the flavour).
Turn onto desired serving wear, and then add freshly grated pecorino, and serve at once.

Note;

These are guideline amounts, feel free to vary. The amounts shown work well in this dish.

Any other hard cheese could be substituted for the pecorino.