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Friday 26 September 2008

MORO - THE COOKBOOK

My copy looks how a cookbook should look, stained dirty and lived in. This is not a book for the shelf as my copy is testament, it should live in the kitchen and be used regularly!

Moro; from the Spanish word meaning Moor

Moro is a restaurant in London's clerkenwell road that specializes in Spanish and middle eastern food, run by a husband and wife, incidentally with identical names- Sam and Sam Clark. Without writing a mills and boon they met, shared there passion for Spanish and Mediterranean middle eastern food then embarked on a culinary tour of there favourite places, opened a restaurant to great reviews and three books later................. as they say the rest is history!
I dare any aspiring cook to try the saffron rice recipe on page170 it is a delight to eat, lovingly spiced with an appealing hue that tantalises the taste buds. Most of the recipes grab at you from the well crafted pages, even the non middle eastern food fans might even be inspired to cook this wonderful lightly spiced cuisine that is so often overlooked in favour of the nations you could only class as the culinary big hitters. If there is one book to convert the masses this surely is the book. Peppered with stories throughout, and quality insight into products with a suppliers list at the end. Recipes that are not only simple in their construction but approachable and cook friendly!
Spanish recipes abound with a section devouted to Tapas and Meze, a good introduction to sherry, not the cheap stuff British Granny's guzzle with such fervour that you end up questioning which group of people actually started the binge drinking culture. Since the publication of this book sherry has become more widespread,with appreciation reaching new proportions, due too it's ability to enhance other flavours and tastes.

The marriage between Spanish and the middle east is probably not a well known one, but read the history, you might just be surprised! With occupation by the moors in Spanish lands between eighth and fifteenth century's a culinary legacy and cooking style was mixed with surprisingly earthy and beautiful results.
Weighing in with 280 pages, and a retail price of £15 it is wonderful value and a fantastic read, a must have for any home cook with a passion for great food. Recipes in this book may appear to some as simple, but it is the importance of quality ingredients that make these dishes so special!

Sunday 21 September 2008

FRIED RICE WITH EGG



A simple standby fried rice with egg that will satisfy your soul, at any meal time!
This recipe will serve 4 people, or alternatively leftovers are wonderful eaten cold!

Note;
Traditionally rice is fried after being cooked and left for a day or maybe a little longer. This dish calls for rice cooked in the present and makes a wonderful supper dish or standby!



400g American long grain rice

2 large organic eggs

100g peas

1 bunch spring onions/scallions- approx 8

2 cloves garlic

1 tbsp sesame oil + more if desired

1 tbsp light soy sauce + more if desired

3 tbsp sunflower oil

Sea salt and fresh ground pepper(preferably white) to taste



Bring 2 litres of lightly salted water to the boil.

Whilst waiting for water to boil;


Lightly whisk 2 eggs with a dash of soy sauce, heat a saute pan with 1 tablespoon of the oil, over a medium heat, cook the eggs as per a plain omelette, once eggs are set fold each side into the middle and slide onto a plate, reserve.

Trim the spring onions reserving the green ends(make sure green ends are cleaned and free of dirt and grit). Finely slice the whites of the onion on the diagonal, and cut the green ends into slightly larger pieces, now finely chop the garlic.


Add rice too boiling water and cook for approx 10 minutes or until cooked but still giving a little.

It is important to keep an eye on the rice whilst cooking. Loosen the rice from time to time, and check to see if rice is cooked.


Once cooked strain the rice into a colander and run under the cold tap for 1 minute to remove excess starch and stop the cooking process. Set aside.


Heat 2 tbsp of oil in a wok or high sided saute pan, once hot add the garlic and stir fry for 1 minute or until a slight change in colour, add peas and cook for a further 2 minutes then add spring onions and cook for 1 minute before adding cooked rice. Do not dump all of the rice into the wok in one go, add a little at a time until all the rice is coated with oil. Add 1 tbsp 0f sesame oil, toss then add 1 tbsp of soy, again toss. Once happy that all rice is thoroughly coated, taste and adjust with either more soy or sesame oil or both.


Add cooked egg and toss, add a turn or two of pepper and salt if required-Serve.

Sunday 14 September 2008

THE ROAST DINNER


A Sunday roast is almost ritual for many, the only chance for a group gathering during our hectic lives. Traditionally the males went to the pub for Sunday lunchtime ale and the womenfolk tended to the roast dinner. Now days this would sound almost chauvinistic that the man is in the pub, with the women at home, but god help any man who was not back at the desired time. Many a last laugh was had at the expense of the alpha male who decided to have that extra pint!If you were foolish enough to stay drinking there was a very good chance that the wife would march to the pub,and you would wear the dinner. That would be the unlucky version of events. If the wife was in reasonable spirits you might just be dragged out by an ear, at least with the latter you still managed to partake your dinner, by which time your humiliation might have subsided enough to sleep the rest of the afternoon in the armchair!
The Sunday roast not only has a history with traditional Sunday public house opening hours but also a meal that was eaten after church in the more traditional days.

In days gone by the Sunday roast provided a lot more than a meal for the family on Sunday, leftovers could be utilised for the following day. Shepard's pie being a dish that would be made with leftover lamb, bubble and squeak with leftover vegetables, possibly with the inclusion of a little dripping or fat that had been rendered from the cooked meat. Rendered fat being used as a cooking medium.
Dripping would be spread on bread for supper, and left over meat could be sliced for sandwiches for the children or the breadwinners lunch the following day. Even the dog normally gets lucky!
The roast is not only about the choice of meat but vegetables, gravy and accompaniments. Before the supermarkets held society to ransom with mass choice,our vegetables would be seasonal, with what you ate being governed by the harvest and what was available at the time . Accompaniments have always played a great part of the Sunday dinner. Accompaniments playing the part of making a marriage of flavours that might not be too welcome on there own. The classic Lamb with mint sauce, a sauce made from fresh mint, vinegar and sugar which provides an acidic note to cut through the fattiness of the lamb, or a nice white onion sauce to accompany roast lamb. Roast Beef with horseradish or mustard, just has to be a match made in heaven, that slight background of heat which somehow manages to bring all those wonderful tastes and flavours together! Roast pork with apple sauce and crackling, is another classic combination, made even more wonderful if made useing freshly picked apples.
Yorkshire puddings with the roast, although traditionally eaten as a starter, have eventually progressed to being eaten as part of the main roast Beef dinner. Now a lot of households will eat them with any roast, this is not to be condemned by the purist! It is a truly worthwhile part of the experience that i must confess to. Being of the persuasion that now views Yorkshires as a part of any roast! Suet crust pudding has lost appeal now days in our more health conscious society, but what a treat to eat with homemade gravy.
Gravy made from the pan juices, then thickened and poured over the dinner as an almost self contained sauce, helps to lift the roast to new heights and i almost forgot the tatties. Roast potatoes crispy on the outside and soft and moist inside are an absolute joy to eat. King Edward potatoes being my choice for roasting, preferably cooked in goose or duck fat, that incidentally is not as unhealthy as people assume!

A fond memory from my childhood, would be the Sundays spent at my aunts who cooked the roast whilst the men would go to the rugby club, a dinner would be cut out for a relative that lived alone, and then be delivered on foot, by whoever was old enough or available.
I was young then and like most children, had a dislike for vegetables but i would enjoy roast dinner cooked by my aunt.
Traditionally roasting was a method of cooking meats before the invention of the domestic oven, the meat would be cooked in front of an open fire using the spit roast method with a tray placed underneath to catch the juices, which could then be used to baste the meat. Basting being a method that is still in use today. The juices from the meat are spooned back over the meat to provide moisture, and stop the meat from drying out. Although sometimes fat from the animal or a fatty product such as streaky bacon is used to provide ready hands free method of basting.
In my opinion a roast dinner needs care and attention. An element of cooking skill is needed, maybe some flair and an understanding of basic techniques also. This is not a meal to be taken lightly- Done well a roast can be sublime, with the recipient experiencing all of the major taste sensations. Done badly a roast is nothing short of a minor catastrophe.
Sunday meats would normally be either Beef,Lamb,Pork or Chicken, this remains the same today in average households,with Seasonal game sometimes eaten by the more affluent family's or large estates. Rarely in normal circumstances, would this extravagance extend to the working class home. I feel that the soul of the roast dinner remains firmly with the mid to lower classes, but this was not always so. Many years ago when people were employed in the service of large households, meats were too expensive for the workers, or working class, so remained for a long time a food for the affluent.
Over the years society has changed with the advent of better wages, mass production of meat and poultry plus better and easier cooking methods. These changes are not necessarily for the better, years ago when the eating of this important meal became widespread and food was not wasted, we cared more for what was provided on our plates. The roast was viewed as a special meal to be enjoyed by the family, while not being cheap the cost of produce for this meal had to be justified with leftovers not going to waste, and the cost to the family eating and conversing together could be wholly justified and beneficial rather than the TV dinner that so often is a focal point of modern times. Modern times has produced a consumer society where excess is paramount, and society no longer cares for the old methods that we used through need and necessity, in modern times the housewife no longer has to worry about what is in the larder, what will be eaten Mondays, or if foods will spoil. Although times have changed, the roast is still a central part of British culture, and like most cultures the ritual of eating and bringing family and friends to the table remains central to ones identity.

PESTO WITH COUS COUS

This simple recipe came to light with the need to use the last 4 tablespoons of homemade pesto!

Serves 4

100g pancetta
1 medium onion
olive oil
4 tablespoons 0f homemade pesto/shop brought pesto
400g cous cous - cooked to the brands instructions
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a saute pan, over a medium heat, add the pancetta, once coloured a little
add the finely diced onion. Cook the onion until soft and translucent, then add cooked cous cous and toss. season with salt and pepper to taste then stir through the pesto, serve ! A quick easy supper.

Sunday 7 September 2008

MADE IN ITALY FOOD AND STORIES - GIORGIO LOCATELLI

Sceptical at first about this book, as i was looking for a real italian cookbook, i did not want another book on restaurant cooking at that time, especially one from a Michelin starred chef. I was after a book offering authentic italian food, with reference to the country's relation between food, people and culture!
Having passed this book on the shelves on more than one occasion, i thought i just as well have a look, well how wrong could i have been? Very wrong- a quick glance was enough for me to make for the counter, and part with £19.99. This book is a masterpiece of food writing, an italian cookbook through to the core, probably the mother of all italian cookbooks(coincidentally this book along with david thompsons thai, are probably my two all time favourite food related books, both very similar in composition, and focused purely on the country in question).
A nice thick book that delivers for your hard earned money, 615 pages not including some photos at the end, like most books on italian food it is broken down into chapters with an outstanding first chapter on antipasti, which runs to 128 pages, a small book in itself! Other chapters include zuppa(soup),pesci(fish),pasta,carne(meat) and dolci(sweet). A stand alone chapter devoted to rissotto, running at 72 pages is passionate, but you wouldn't expect any less from a northern italian. This chapter like the others is more than just rissotto, included within are pages on the foundation of all good rissotto's. Pages on stock, porcini and for the wealthy amongst us truffle! To see rissotto with it's very own chapter is special, normally rissotto is tagged onto the end of a chapter on pasta, which i find infuriating.
Amongst the individual chapters you will find random pages on produce, food stories from the authors childhood, and a real sense of seasonality that has founded italian cooking, of course there are references to the restaurant(locander locatelli), but these are welcome, a nice touch that allows the reader to put the dishes in perspective.
A wonderful read with only one gripe, it's a pain in the backside to read in bed! An easy way to counter this is to take the book into the kitchen, start cooking the recipes and enjoy. I have!

Saturday 6 September 2008

WOW- WHAT A MONTH

Plunging head first into iced water, might well have been an easier undertaking, than putting my thoughts and recipes into print! A month on i still feel out of my depth, but out of the iced water. Along the way there has been quite a lot of highs, and of course some lows.
Seeing a recipe i have constructed, with one of my not so good photos alongside, has certainly been a worthwhile investment of my time and patience.
On the couple of occasions the damn computer has refused to behave, i have managed to keep my chin above the water, and not drown. I will continue to hold my head above, even when misbehaving gadgets with keys refuse to perform but neglect to inform the incompetent user
how to operate them.
So back to the blog- so far i have achieved a lot more input than at fist expected, although no order as of yet, has happened.
This month has also seen me take the plunge and try my first raw fish- in a japanese restaurant. In the past i have been no stranger to the delights of japanese cooking, so naturally the next step was raw fish sushi. Did i enjoy it? You bet i did, it was a revelation!
On a sour note this month, i somehow managed to go against the grain of my kitchen philosophy, and dare i say the word waste, well unfortunately this was the case. I'm not proud, somehow i managed to overbuy a little, maybe not super shopper style, and all the produce was fresh. Mistakes are made, with not allowing for a 4 day break in between i arrived home to bell peppers,carrots and salad produce all past its best!
Considering our track record the last three years with minimal waste it is not all bad! But again a mistake i would not like to repeat to often, somehow ironic that our first real wasteful week occurs the month i start to write.
This month also saw the arrival of a relative, who duly informed us that he does not eat anything apart from microwave meals, and finds a sandwich to much of a chore to make???
Since departed i now have a freezer full of frozen snot- with no takers for meals! More waste, but this stuff i would rather see not eaten, although more waste in the packaging for the environment!
On a good note we have just found out from other relatives, that we can have a half share of their allotment whilst we fester on a long waiting list somewhere in the depths of a local councils filing system, for our very own!
So all in all a very good first month blogging and an unfortunate incident of waste!

Thursday 4 September 2008

MAFALDINE PASTA




Mafaldine - Ribbon shaped pasta that is approximately 25cm long by 1cm wide. Mafaldine is a flat pasta with wavy edges, it holds form and shape very well after cooking, and retains an al-dente texture.



Mafaldine has a colourful history behind it's origin, being named for an Italian Princess by the Neapolitans. Princess Mafalda di Savoia, who was married to a German aristocrat, before the second world war, unfortunately she met a gruesome end whilst incarcerated at the hands of the German Nazis, in a concentration camp. A bomb blast next to where she slept eventually claimed her life.



Some say that Mafaldine resembles old lace, which gives this delightful pasta a touch of elegance.



Mafaldine would normally be used with a delicate sauce, that would showcase the pasta and textures. I have used it here instead of spaghetti for a tomato sauce.

A SIMPLE TOMATO SAUCE FOR PASTA

A tomato sauce that uses fresh tomatoes, although 2 decent tins of plum tomatoes can be substituted. This sauce will serve four with pasta.

10 ripe tomatoes medium size(peeled & crushed) This can be done with a potato masher or More fun but very messy is to crush them in the palm of your hands!

2 tbsp fine chopped onion

2 cloves garlic

80-100g pancetta (cubed/diced) or equivalent cured bacon

1.5 tbsp of good olive oil

1 tsp of red wine vinegar

10 torn basil leaves

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

First peel your tomatoes; Make a small star shape incision at the vine end of the tomato, place into a pan of boiling water for 10 seconds, remove from heat, and plunge into iced water to stop the cooking process, your tomatoes will now peel easily! If using tinned tomatoes, there is no need to peel.You will still need to lightly crush.

Heat the oil in a saute pan, then add finely chopped onions. Saute the onions until they start to change colour a little, add pancetta, saute for 2 minutes, then add the garlic, but do not let the garlic colour!

Add your tomatoes to the pan and turn down the heat a little, once the tomatoes take on a sauce consistency add a splash of red wine vinegar.

This sauce should take roughly 30 minutes, at the end of the cooking and off the heat add the torn basil leaves.

Season throughout cooking at intervals - but be aware that the pancetta will provide, an element of salt already, plus a grating of fresh parmasen will add another element of salt.

Once sauce is cooked add your pasta of choice and incorporate, so that the pasta is coated in the tomato sauce. Serve immediately, with a grating of fresh hard cheese such as parmasen.

Note;
Omit the pancetta for a vegetarian tomato sauce. Without the pancetta this sauce is still very good. I have used a pasta called mafaldine with this sauce but others such as spaghetti or penne are all excellent.

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I seem to be a jack of all trades and a master of none!